Grilled fresh over charcoal, as close to the flame as you can manage, and eaten whole — bones and all. This is one of the simplest and best things on the Lebanese coast, and it has almost nothing in common with the fish in the tin.
Also known as sardines · sardina · sardin baladi
- Arabicسردينsardin
- Arabic nameسردين — sardin
- EnglishFresh sardines
- CookedWhole, over the highest heat available
- TimeTwo to three minutes a side, and no more
- Eaten withBread, raw onion, lemon, olives
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Get Sofra — free download →What it tastes and smells like
Rich and oily, with a clean iron edge underneath and a char on the skin that is most of the pleasure. The bones soften enough to eat, which is why the fish is served whole and why nobody fillets it.
Fresh sardines and canned sardines are not the same food. The tinned version is preserved, soft and uniform; the fresh one is charred, firm and gone in three bites. Anyone who says they dislike sardines has almost always only met the tin.
The highest heat you have, as close to the flame as possible, two to three minutes a side. Cooked gently they go soft and greasy — the char is not a garnish, it is the dish.
What it is used in
- Samke HarraLebanese coast · Levantine
- South Lebanese Grilled Fish with Herb SauceSouth Lebanon · Levantine
- Samak bil Forn — Oven-Baked Fish with Onion and TomatoLebanese coast · Levantine
- Sardines Cured in Idlib Olive Oil with Lemon and Herbs400 g very fresh sardines, filleted
How to buy and store it
Buy them the day you will cook them — sardines deteriorate faster than almost any fish on the counter, and a sardine that is even a day old is noticeably worse. Look for bright, tight silver skin, clear eyes and a stiff body. A dull, soft, bendy sardine has been out too long.
Ask the fishmonger to gut them and leave them otherwise whole. They are cheap almost everywhere, which is part of the point; this is not a fish anyone needs to save for an occasion.
If you cannot find it
- Fresh anchovies goodSmaller and more delicate, cooked exactly the same way.
- Small mackerel goodSame oily richness at a larger size. Give them a little longer.
- Smelt acceptableMilder and leaner, but grilled whole and eaten bones-and-all in the same spirit.
Frequently asked questions
How do you cook fresh sardines?
Over the highest heat you can produce, as close to the flame as possible, for two to three minutes a side. They should be charred outside and just cooked through. Cooked slowly they turn soft and greasy.
Are fresh sardines the same as canned sardines?
No, and the difference is large. Canned sardines are preserved, soft and uniform. Fresh sardines are char-grilled, firm and eaten immediately — most people who think they dislike sardines have only ever eaten the tinned version.
Can you eat the bones in sardines?
Yes. Grilled whole, the bones soften enough to eat, which is why the fish is served whole and rarely filleted.
How do I know if sardines are fresh?
Bright, tight silver skin, clear eyes, and a body stiff enough to hold itself when lifted. Dull, soft or bendy sardines are past their best. Buy them the day you cook them.
What do you serve with grilled sardines?
Bread, raw onion, lemon and olives. It is a deliberately plain accompaniment; the fish and the char are the whole dish.
What can I use instead of fresh sardines?
Fresh anchovies, cooked identically, or small mackerel given slightly longer on the heat.