Tahini — shown in Hummus bi Tahini
طحينة

Tahini

Ingredient · Ground sesame paste

Ground sesame paste — the base of hummus, of baba ghanoush, of the sauce that goes over fish and lamb. Quality varies more than in almost anything else in the Levantine pantry, and the difference between a good jar and a cheap one decides whether a dish works.

Also known as tahina · tahineh · tehina · sesame paste

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What it tastes and smells like

Nutty and rich with a light bitterness at the end — the bitterness belongs there, but it should sit behind the sesame rather than in front of it. Cheap tahini is bitter first and thick as putty.

Good tahini pours. If you tip the jar and the paste holds its shape like frosting, it will fight you in a dressing and it will make hummus heavy.

Which kind

If a jar tastes harshly bitter straight from the spoon, no amount of lemon or garlic will rescue the dish.

What it is used in

30 Sofra recipes use it in all — browse the collection.

How to buy and store it

Lebanese and Palestinian brands are the ones to look for, and Middle Eastern grocers stock them at better prices than supermarkets. Al Arz, Cortas, Baroody and Soom are all widely available.

Separated oil on top is a good sign, not a fault: it means the jar has no stabilisers in it. Stir it back through thoroughly before measuring — tahini taken from the top is oil, and from the bottom is cement. Store it in the cupboard rather than the fridge, where it stiffens.

If you cannot find it

Frequently asked questions

What is tahini?

Tahini is sesame seeds ground to a paste. It is the base of hummus, baba ghanoush and the tahini sauces served with fish and lamb.

How do I know if tahini is good?

It should pour, not hold its shape, and it should taste nutty with only a light bitterness at the end. If it is stiff, or bitter before it is nutty, it will not make good hummus.

Why has the oil separated in my tahini?

Because there are no stabilisers in it, which is a good sign. Stir it back through thoroughly before you measure — the top of an unstirred jar is oil and the bottom is a solid plug.

Should tahini be refrigerated?

No. It stiffens in the cold and becomes hard to stir. A sealed jar keeps for months in a cool cupboard.

What is the difference between light and dark tahini?

Light tahini is made from hulled sesame seeds and is milder and smoother; dark tahini uses unhulled seeds and is more bitter and more complex. Most Levantine recipes assume light.

What can I use instead of tahini?

There is no close substitute. Sunflower seed butter gives a similar texture and a completely different flavour.