Ground sesame paste — the base of hummus, of baba ghanoush, of the sauce that goes over fish and lamb. Quality varies more than in almost anything else in the Levantine pantry, and the difference between a good jar and a cheap one decides whether a dish works.
Also known as tahina · tahineh · tehina · sesame paste
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Get Sofra — free download →Nutty and rich with a light bitterness at the end — the bitterness belongs there, but it should sit behind the sesame rather than in front of it. Cheap tahini is bitter first and thick as putty.
Good tahini pours. If you tip the jar and the paste holds its shape like frosting, it will fight you in a dressing and it will make hummus heavy.
If a jar tastes harshly bitter straight from the spoon, no amount of lemon or garlic will rescue the dish.
30 Sofra recipes use it in all — browse the collection.
Lebanese and Palestinian brands are the ones to look for, and Middle Eastern grocers stock them at better prices than supermarkets. Al Arz, Cortas, Baroody and Soom are all widely available.
Separated oil on top is a good sign, not a fault: it means the jar has no stabilisers in it. Stir it back through thoroughly before measuring — tahini taken from the top is oil, and from the bottom is cement. Store it in the cupboard rather than the fridge, where it stiffens.
Tahini is sesame seeds ground to a paste. It is the base of hummus, baba ghanoush and the tahini sauces served with fish and lamb.
It should pour, not hold its shape, and it should taste nutty with only a light bitterness at the end. If it is stiff, or bitter before it is nutty, it will not make good hummus.
Because there are no stabilisers in it, which is a good sign. Stir it back through thoroughly before you measure — the top of an unstirred jar is oil and the bottom is a solid plug.
No. It stiffens in the cold and becomes hard to stir. A sealed jar keeps for months in a cool cupboard.
Light tahini is made from hulled sesame seeds and is milder and smoother; dark tahini uses unhulled seeds and is more bitter and more complex. Most Levantine recipes assume light.
There is no close substitute. Sunflower seed butter gives a similar texture and a completely different flavour.