The story
IdlibIdlib has its own za'atar tradition, and the wild thyme of Jabal al-Zawiya is commonly described as unusually pungent — a difference attributed locally to the limestone soils and the dry mountain climate.
Two things share this name. Za'atar is a wild thyme that grows across the Levant, and za'atar is also the blend built on it — the dried herb with sumac, toasted sesame and salt. The blend is what you dip bread and olive oil into.
Also known as zaatar · za'tar · zahtar · zatar
- Arabicزعترza'tar
- The herbA wild thyme native to the Levant, used fresh and dried
- The blendDried za'atar with sumac, sesame seeds and salt
- Looks likeDusty green, flecked red with sumac and pale with sesame
- KeepsSix months to a year; the sesame goes rancid first
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What it tastes and smells like
The herb is thyme with more oregano in it than English thyme has — resinous, dry, a little peppery. The blend adds sour from the sumac and fat from the sesame, which is why it works with olive oil and would not work with butter.
Regional blends differ, and the difference is easy to taste side by side. Lebanese blends tend to be thyme-forward and mild with the sumac; Syrian and Palestinian blends often run more oregano-like or more sour.
Which kind
- Lebanese blendThyme-forward, restrained sumac, plenty of sesame. The standard dipping blend.
- Syrian and Palestinian blendsOften more oregano-like in the herb, sometimes noticeably more sumac.
- Za'atar herb, plainThe dried plant on its own, with nothing added. Used in salads, in dough and with eggs.
Cheaper blends are bulked out with flour, bran or citric acid. Check the ingredient list.
What it is used in
- Idlib Clay-Jar Preserved Labneh2 tbsp dried za'atar
- Labneh with Za'atar2 tbsp Za'atar spice blend
- Lebneh Balls in Olive Oil2 tablespoons dried za'atar
- Manakish Za'atar4 tbsp Za'atar spice blend
- Shanklish1 teaspoon dried za'atar leaves
- Za'atar & Idlib Olive Oil4 tbsp Dried za'atar (wild thyme blend)
- Zeit wa Zaatar80 g Lebanese zaatar dry blend
- Idlib Olive Oil Bread Dip with Thyme and Sumac1 tbsp dried za'atar thyme
20 Sofra recipes use it in all — browse the collection.
How to buy and store it
Middle Eastern grocers usually carry several blends at once; buy small quantities of two and taste them against each other before committing. A good blend smells green and sharp through the bag. A dull, dusty, hay-like smell means it has been sitting.
The sesame is what fails first. Keep the blend sealed, cool and dark, and smell it before using an old bag — rancid sesame is unmistakable and will carry through everything you put it on.
If you cannot find it
- Dried thyme, sumac and toasted sesame at roughly 2:1:1, with salt goodA workable version of the blend if you already have sumac. Toast the sesame first.
Frequently asked questions
Is za'atar a herb or a spice blend?
Both, and the name is used for each. Za'atar is a wild thyme native to the Levant, and it is also the name of the blend made from that dried herb with sumac, sesame seeds and salt.
What does za'atar taste like?
The herb is thyme with a strong oregano character — resinous, dry, slightly peppery. The blend adds sourness from sumac and richness from sesame.
What can I use instead of za'atar?
Dried thyme, sumac and toasted sesame seeds at roughly two to one to one, with salt. It is a genuine approximation rather than a compromise, provided the sesame is toasted.
Why do za'atar blends taste so different from each other?
Because the proportions and the herb itself vary by region and by family. Lebanese blends tend to be thyme-forward with restrained sumac; Syrian and Palestinian blends are often more oregano-like or more sour.
How do I know if za'atar has gone off?
Smell it. The sesame in the blend turns rancid before anything else does, and once it has, it carries through everything you put the blend on.
What is za'atar used in?
Most famously with olive oil as a dip for bread, and baked onto flatbread as manakish. It also goes onto labneh, into salads and dough, and with eggs.