The dried, ground berry of the sumac shrub — a coarse, damp-looking crimson powder. Where another kitchen reaches for vinegar, this one reaches for sumac.
Also known as summaq · sumak · sumagh · summac
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Get Sofra — free download →Sharp, but fruity rather than acidic the way vinegar is — closer to the skin of a tart apple, finishing with a faint tannic grip. No heat and no perfume: sumac sours a dish without adding anything else to it.
Freshness shows in the texture. Good sumac is moist and clings to your fingers. Pale, dry, free-flowing sumac has lost most of its acid and will taste of very little.
Some brands are cut with salt. Check the label before you season by eye.
17 Sofra recipes use it in all — browse the collection.
Buy it from a grocer with turnover rather than from a supermarket spice rack, and judge it by colour and feel: deep crimson-purple, faintly moist, clumping slightly. Brown, dusty sumac is old.
Keep it in a sealed jar in a dark cupboard. It holds its acid for roughly a year, then fades rather than spoils — you will taste the loss before anything goes wrong with it. Middle Eastern grocers commonly sell it loose by weight, which is both cheaper and fresher.
Sumac is the dried, ground berry of the sumac shrub, sold as a coarse crimson powder. It is the everyday souring agent of Levantine cooking, used where other kitchens use lemon or vinegar.
Tart and fruity, closer to tart apple skin than to vinegar, with a mild astringent finish. It has no heat and no aroma of its own, so it sours a dish without changing anything else about it.
Lemon zest with a little salt is the closest workable substitute for the acidity. It will not give you sumac's colour, its dusted texture on the surface of a dish, or its tannic finish.
Judge it by colour and feel. Fresh sumac is deep crimson-purple, faintly moist and slightly clumping. Pale, brown, dry, free-flowing sumac has lost its acid and will taste of very little.
Pure sumac does not, but some brands are cut with salt to bulk them out. Check the ingredient list before seasoning by eye, particularly in a dressing that is already salted.
Fattoush is the best known — sumac is both in the dressing and scattered over the top. It is also part of za'atar blends, dusted over labneh, and rubbed into chicken before grilling.